How long?

I’m in Nablus for the first time since the end of the intifada when regular military incursions, curfews and cordons, and militant resistance were the order of the day. Nablus today is, at least superficially, more peaceful. But it would be a stretch to say the situation’s better than it was.

I hitched a ride with the Bethlehem Bible College Choir who had a gig in my old church in the Rafidiya district. I was invited to sing the setting of Psalm 13 I dedicated to those people of Nablus who’d been such an inspiration to me, and it was a huge honour to be able to do so. It was a particular pleasure to see Violet again, a lady stalwart of the church whose stories of a childhood in Mandate Palestine kept me entertained for hours one afternoon in the summer of 2004. Alas, tonight she said, “Things here improve and they get worse, it’s up and down. But now it’s worse than ever. There is just no hope of peace, really no hope."

Getting some food and kunafa after the performance, people in the street seemed neither festive nor downcast. As I walked into the old town to find a bed, there weren’t many people around, the faces on the faded martyr posters seemed a little forlorn, the flags - now seemingly representing Fatah a little more than before - fluttering with less vigour. Perhaps it was Violet’s words that made me perceive my surroundings in this way, or the very visible expansion of settlements on several of the hilltops as we drove into town this afternoon. But the lack of music or street corner chatter was conspicuous, and the young man cycling in erratic circles while shouting at himself as I entered the gloomy streets of the Old Town seemed to provide a strangely resonant image of desolation.

In any case, it’s hard to stay optimistic when locals are pessimistic. After my uplifting story about the boy at the demo yesterday, I read that a boy was shot dead at a demo today.

I’m spending the day here tomorrow. I’ll maybe pick up something more positive from my friend who works at the aptly named Project Hope.

Meanwhile, I'm left with Psalm 13. "How long, Oh Lord?"